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The Crispy, Cheesy Midnight Snack That Happened Completely By Mistake

Lobster blow-torched until crispy. Pots of fried chicken bubbling away. Giant mung bean pancakes flipped on a griddle. Endless skewers of meat sizzling, filling the air with a cloud of eau de pork belly. These are the sights, sounds, and smells that haunted my dreams—the street food of Seoul, South Korea.

Weaving around crowds of people holding overflowing plates of piping-hot savory and sweet snacks—while simultaneously trying to find a wall to lean on and dive into a giant cabbage-and-egg-stuffed sandwich—was my hope for 2020. I was desperate to go to Seoul for the first time in 2020, but COVID derailed my plans.

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